Experiential Learning

I have left my routine, traditional lifestyle with the Vinayaks; taken the pilgrimage to the Golden Temple for a beloved friend in Bellingham; and for the past few days have made a new sort-of home in the beautiful mountains of tourist-filled Mcloud Gang/Dharamsala.

I finally admitted to myself that something was/is seriously wrong with my digestion.  It is not possible that nearly every food item wreaks havoc on my intestines (or that my body's receptivity to different foods is steadily decreasing).  Before arriving here, I had contacted a group called "The Ayurveda House" to see if there was any possibility of my meeting with the doctors on staff or volunteering around the place.  As the response was positive, I felt good about seeking it out, but now for my OWN treatment.

A kind Indian photographer fellow from Delhi accompanied me on my treck across the short mountain pass, sharing with me first that my pronunciation of Ayurveda was incorrect (and really, it is AyurveD in Hindi anyway...) and a success story of his brother's using Ayurvedic and Homeopathic medicine when allopathy was not able to help.  He also read my palm, telling me, among other things, that I had a very strong study and wealth line and would most likely get married at the age of 24.

Both of my meetings with the doctor were short and simple.  He took my pulse, examined my tongue, checked my blood pressure with a manual but modern machine, asked me to report my symptoms and sent me down to the lab in Dharamsala to take a stool test.  Which, fittingly, came back positive for girardia.

Back the next day with the doctor, he asked me if I wanted Ayurvedic or Allopathic medicines.  The allopathic would take an estimated 5-8 days while the Ayurvedic Herbal would take an estimated 13-15.  As anyone who has suffered extreme/chronic pain or discomfort knows, the tempting nature of such an offer is intense. "Oh, ok. THIS time I'll take what I KNOW is going to work, and will work FAST.  I just can't take it anymore...in the future I'll be more careful...I'll try something natural NEXT time."  I'm not about to state that this mind-talk never warrants any merrit because it does; but in more instances, it does not.  So, I struggled for a few moments with my own mind-talk, ultimately deciding that taking the Ayurvedic medicine was a vital part of my experiential learning process (in addition to the countless other reasons to select natural over allopathic medicine). 

I received two fairly big bottle of a liquid formula (a decoction that more than likely sat in one of those large vats for months like the ones I saw at my Indian family's factory) and a package of brown pills.  In addition, the doctor gave me a brief explanation about how the parasite was effecting my 'pitta' (digestive fire) and that in order to support its elimination, increasing my body's capacity to have superior digestion by not eating the wrong foods was crucial to the process. Also, that because this parasite is effecting the quality of my digestion, 'ama' (toxins) were subsequently building up in my tissues which will increase risk of disease later on.  Therefore, propper rejuvination treatment will be crucI am to report back when my medicine is complete to receive one more bottle.

This visit was not particularly impressive. Not that I'm any kind of expert, but most of what he told me (besides what actual medicine I should take) I already intuited/knew. Unlike the other doctors I have spoken with so far, this man truly represented the 'modern' Ayurvedic physician: one who is thoroughly trained in the medical sciences of allopathy and ayurved, but seems to lack the heart or intuitive instinct an ayurvedic healer.  The dietary advice he offered me was good, but hardly thorough in my opinion.  I was able to find out more through my own food trial and error experiements and from the advice that a woman/friend of mine offered who had experienced the same problem.

 

So for everyone's edification, in case you happen to acquire girardia in india...

 

1.) Girardia is a single-celled parasite that infects the small intestine.  It can live inactively as a 'cyst.'  Because of this, the infection can exist for years in the body without even being noticed (grapefruit seed extract is one of the only items known to kill not the parasite, but the lingering CYSTS)

 

2.) Ayurvedic medication DOES work; I have been on mine now for only two days and already feel totally different, in a good way

 

3.) Drink lots of water, with lemmon and salt is even better

 

4.) Do NOT eat/drink: Milk, nuts, meat, cafinated beverage, eggs, junk/fried/heavy foods.

 

5.) Especially GOOD to eat: Fresh garlic, ginger (all sorts of spices, but not items that are too 'spicy'), papaya (all fruit), carrots (all vegetables) butter, y llow and red dal, rice, herbal teas.

 

honey and chipati are fine.

 

~

 

Such an abundance of stimulating curiosities in this place.  Besides the other Ayurvedic doctors I want to seek out, Tibetan medicine is perhaps even more prevalent.  When I innitiallly went to the near by tibetan clinic and breifly reported my symptoms, they told me to go to the Ayurvedic doctor.  What a concept! For different healing modalities to understand their strengths, but to also recfognize where another modality might have better treatment measures in place.  I feel ridiculously exited to witness such a frame of mind, most likely because  of the void of such thinking in  the majority of allopathy.

 

But all of this exploration will have to wait, for 10 days at least.  I will be starting a 10-day vipassana (silent meditation retreat) in a few hours.   From the interactions I have had thus far with Ayurvedic healers who's very presence has moved me, I've taken from them how vital the elemet of spiritual practice/meditation is not only in one's capacity to be healed, but to indeed perform the healing. 

Both are aspects beneficial for all people to nourish within themselves throughout this life. In the spirit of my adventure's search to become closer to the hearler, and in my current state as the healee, this seems like a very appropriate time for me to begin such an undertaking as prolonged meditation.

  

some days with some doctors, and then some...

10/25

I was first dropped at Ayurvedic Doctor Gupta's office last week, on the recommendation made by the doctor I am currently living with.  As I walked in, the doctor was sitting with his eyes closed, attentively tuned in with the pulse of a woman-patient in front of his desk.  Taking a few moments to observe my surroundings, I happily scanned the shelves behind the counter lined with an array of medicines from my family's herbal production facility, you know, that sort of 'farm-to-table' feeling. But the most prominent feature in the small room is a board with a list titled "Important Points for a Patient," created by Dr. Gupta:

IMPORTANT POINTS FOR A PATIENT

1.) Even if you are sick and become a patient, you must never lose patience
2.) The greatest healers are GOD and TIME
3.) Keep patience and live peacefully
4.) Don't be angry and aggressive
5.) Be happy and don't be tense
6.) In all respects, keep giving respect
7.) Have faith in GOD and Doctor
8.) Prevention is better than cure
9.) Faith in God means no fear
10.) Doctor treats, God cures
11.) Early to bed early to rise, makes a an healthy, wealthy and wise


The duration of the consultation is a far more communal than private affair.  Soon after taking his patient's pules the doctor motioned for me to seat myself on the chair directly right of the patient's, her middle-aged daughter occupying the seat to her left.  I can't understand what they are saying to each other but it seems to relate to inflammation/bloating of some sort (?) by the gestures and expressions I perceive.  By this point, the patient appears to have taken a liking to me, as I have to her.  I offer whatever consolation I can through my expressions/intermittent verbal communication attempts and soon, she offers her arm to me and I'm the one feeling her place of discomfort!  She expresses her feelings of distress.  I just sit, nod, occasionally letting out a sound I hope resembles empathy, and send as much healing energy into that arm and body as I can muster.

As her daughter takes the notes and medicines from the doctor, the mother and I embrace one another before she leave as though we've been life-long companions on the way to separation.

The day continues, full of patients and no time for me to ask the doctor the page of questions I'd written prior to arriving.  But the experience proves equally as informative as if I had had time to ask.  Another patient, this time a man who spoke English, shared with me his condition and why he has chosen Ayurvedic of Allopathic medicine for the past 15 years.  He had started taking perscrption medicine for chronic pain he was feeling in his joints but soon after developed serious deterioration of his small intestine due to the nature of the medication.  With Ayurvedic medicines, however, he had repaired the damage of his small intestine and no longer experiences joint pain.

The reasoning I hear over and over again about why Ayurveda is preferred over allopathic is because 'It WORKS and there are NO SIDE EFFECTS."

Though traditional Ayurvedic medicines contain all sorts of ingredients that would seem unfathomable to the Western paradigm- metals, stones, and cow urine, for example, are all fairly common ingredients- the results are consistently positive.  When using allopathic drugs, additional negative effects are practically inherent. 

The working day ends before I've really had much of a chance to talk with the doctor, so he kindly invites me to return the following day.
But the following day, instead of continuing with the question-answering process himself, he leads me outside, down a pathway and upstairs to a slightly more extensive clinical center.  Past the main entrance and into a side room, he introduces me to two individuals. "Masters" he says, "My teachers; much smarter than me." This is hard for me to imagine, as this particular doctor looked no younger than 75. I try to explain to them what I am doing (I suppose it is a little bit confusing...'no, I don't have any real history with Ayurveda...no, I'm not certain I want to be a doctor..but yes, I have traveled across the world to learn what you have to share, even though neither of us knew of the other's existence until moments ago').  Still, they accept my proposal, telling me to return the next day.

So there I sit, with these 60 year-veteran Ayurvedic doctors (who I later learn to be a married couple) ecstatic to have all of my well thought out questions about health and disease answered by their master-minds.
I should have remembered my earlier advice to self: in India, control simply does not exist.

I don't think one of my planned questions was answered, except an incredibly trivial inquiry about sweet milk tea- drinking small amount before breakfast is quite alright. Instead, my fate was a sort-of lecture revolving around GOD. 
"All mighty has given this wold..only meant for our benefit of medicine.  God gives us a plant with many things: 5 for purpose, 5 to prevent side effects [exact numbers were irrelevant to to the point]. Ayurveda does not question God's wisdom."
 He says it is Allopathy's questioning of this wisdom (taking the '5' for purpose and leaving the '5' for side effects) that lead to so many behavioral/physical problems, jealousy, suicide, etc.  The male doctor does most of the talking but his wife, quite strictly, keeps his English and subject content in check. He continues to say very matter-of-factually that there will come a time when the tradition will be lost. That scripturally and experientially speaking, once something rises too high it must collapse; humanity is now on top, so it along with its traditions, must fall. I point out that such statements could easily be taken by some as slightly depressing, even making one question the point of life.
 He throws up his hands, "Why? We are here to learn! To gather information! That is why we are taking births, to choose between performing good and bad works."  

They motion up to a picture on the wall of a young man.  It is their son, who is now deceased.  They are doing their work for him. It is purely charity work.  Although the man was once the principle of the Punjab Ayurvedic College, neither of them charge their patients at this point.  Only if the patient must go next door for some treatment by other doctors on staff, then the charge is 70 rupees- less than $2.

Although the conversation was largely historical, philosophical/spiritual in content, I was grateful to also receive some insight into tangible ways of Ayurvedically living life and treating dis-ease. For now, I will just share a single point they both conveyed with equal severity of importance: the body's absolute need for proper digestion, which includes taking meals at VERY consistent time intervals- with consciousness and a clean emotional state- as being one of the largest ways to prevent the immersion of virtually every dis-ease.

Their routine is, for example:
*wake up early. Eat spoonfull of chawanprash and drink small tea
*45 minute walk
*9:00 breakfast
*2:00 lunch
*4:00 tea
*8:30 dinner
Only liquids/fresh juice in between meals!

Out of the three hours we spent together, I think it is very telling of Ayurveda that these two incredibly clinically-experienced doctors felt it in my best interest to relay with me the spirit behind Ayurveda above all other things.  But it really is not even a perspective exclusive to Ayurvedic/Hindu tradition either; all religions/spiritualities I am aware of opine that the earth is part of "God's" creation also.  Ayurveda is simply an entire medical system that takes such beliefs to heart, practicing and tangibly developing what so many scriptures and people around the world preach.   
 

~on a side note, some strangely unknown, powerful and wonderful energy possessed me two days ago, and my head is now shaved.  With my hair, it seems as though many lingering feelings of trepidation were simultaneously trimmed.  Thank you, God?

ok, that's all for now.
love : )

Family and TRADITION

10/16

To explain the intricate webbings of my host family's relatives, and how some of them are actually partially responsible for my coming to be with this family in the first place, would be far too complex.  Though I do see this complexity as being significant; the fact that these intricate webbings not only exist, but are entirely revered and nurtured is definitional for Indian/Hindu culture.

Four days ago was the first act of a very special occasion. "Karva Chauth"- derived from a very old myth- is a day Hindu women take to fast for the good health and longevity of their spouse.  Men occasionally take part (which really makes the most sense to me)  but such participation is rare.  Around the time of this day, it is customary women to cover their hands in henna, paint nails, wear bangles and for the daughter-in-law's family to visit and bring gifts to the family of the the daughter's husband. 

The 3.5hr journey to visit the in-laws was hot and the traffic virtually endless, varying only in the extent of its craziness/confusion.  What I've seen of the Punjabi and Haryana regions has not been particularly aesthetic; what has been a beautiful sight though, is not ONE individual that comes even somewhat close to resembling me!

We are met with the utmost graciousness.  I am beginning to detect a pattern....
It is interesting to observe everyone's 'roles' as they vary from setting to setting.  If only a single scene in the day was observed, for instance, it might appear that only the helping hand does any work; or the daughter in law; or the mother.  But as the day goes on and one task flows into the next, so does the individual that is performing a particular task.  This may also happen in the West, but what is definitely different is the rigid distinction between roles and how they are impeccably understood by all. 
Part of me appreciates this way of living without there being so much question or passive aggression/confusion about about what one person should be doing, when, or why.  "It is what it is, we are all supporting each other, and that is that!" 

This leads into the subject of marriage.  The man we visited (whose son married the daughter of my family; the couple now lives in my home-town of Colville) told me that it was one of the wonderful things about Indian culture. "It is not only a marriage of two people, but two families." His father of 98 recently died, but lived in the same house as his son, daughter-in-law, and grandchildren till that day.  Sanvi, the two-year-old I live with is receiving love and affection from all angles, be it from her parents, grandparents, or uncle.  Each generational perspective offers wisdom to the other.  The only requirement is that the daughter must be the one to leave her birth family to join that of her husband- so good luck girls! But because the two families are 'joined' visits/calls/tokens of appreciation etc. are made a priority, even if it does require long and uncomfortable traveling experiences.

My host sister assures me that the situation is not idyllic.  "Have you met your boyfriend's parents?? Imagine living with them!" She says that modern thoughts of independence and nuclear families have certainly entered Indian awareness, leading to a 'breaking up' of the family. 
Also, that people sacrifice and hold a great deal in their hearts to make it work.  Still, she and what currently seems to be the bulk of India sees this as being the best choice.

So yesterday was Karva Chauth and like a good host-daughter and active anthropological participant, I fasted for the good health of my "husband." It actually was an entirely satisfying experience.  The day was filled with reading, going to the temple, attending a 'kitty-party' (a women's group where we played a game something like bingo) and going over the story of Karva Chauth/partaking in puja with my host mother and sister.  The tradition is to take simple chipati and water at 4:00am, drink one glass of water and tea at 3:00, and then break the fast when the moon becomes visible.

This culture is incredibly rich with its seemingly endless ancient traditions/customs. But being here is bringing to light that (to me) it is not simply the ancientness or particular origin that makes a tradition special or not; it is the individual's and group's love-consciousness with which they are (or are not)  enacted.

Domestic Life with the Vinayaks

10/11: Panchkula, Haryana

Now at home; it is 9:16pm and dinner is almost ready.  The wife of the eldest brother has just told me that when I am finished, I must come teach her to bake. Cookies I think. She doesn't seem to understand why a  microwave 'oven' would not work to do the job  like any other oven.  I guess there is a first try for everything!
She speaks English well, met her husband while receiving her masters degree.  I am so incredibly grateful for her presence and friendship while I am here.  She tells me that India is a transition country- split between traditional and modern ways- and that that is the most difficult place to be. She personally experiences the challenges on the household level as a wife (submissive/independent; food; family/career; etc) but ultimately remains entirely committed to her role in the family as mother and helping hand to her mother-in-law. The general belief is that Western ways of "freedom" are actually just selfish.  "Aren't your parents lonely? Why don't you live with them?"
~
The family as a whole seems to fit perfectly into the definition of 'split,' as it refers to their modern and traditional quality.  The television or computer are almost always on, the microwave is used occasionally, western-styled clothes are worn by the younger generation and white 'wonder' bread and some other very American-styled products are consumed now and then.  Still, the majority is quite traditional.  We  partake in 'puja' (a prayer/mantra, frequently chanted to a particular deity over a shrine) and I'll regularly hear my host mother do the  same over food she prepares or while doing laundry; food is nearly always made from scratch, the produce coming from vendors around the house and milk from their family's cow; the baby's milk is heated with a few herbs to aid in digestion; and most significantly in my mind, the entire family lives shares the same house, and can not imagine it being any other way.

It is fascinating to frequently witness behaviors that I would deem so uncharacteristic of one another being executed in one person. Maybe it is not so much the contradiction, but the unconsciousness with which traditional and modern behaviors merge. Eating a wonder bread/fake cheese sandwich...but always finishing with black salt (a useful aid in digestion). Or spending the afternoon watching television.....but never forgetting to take some moments to offer a prayer to the shrine before leaving for work.

I guess contradictions of people exist everywhere in the world- India or even an Ayurvedic family is no different.  But my host sister is saddened by the modernization of India, reminiscing of the traditional ways of her own mother and grandmother. Modernization is rampant on a large scale- especially it seems if you wish to be distinguished as a well-to-do person or family.  So many fearful thoughts are coming up for me about the sustainability of Indian plants/animals/resources if the reverence for traditional foods and ways are lost in the excited flurry to modernize; this topic could easily pull me into research in-and-of its self.

Patiala Ayurvedic Herbal Factory

10/7: Patiala, Punjab

The Indian-man-friend visiting from Canada takes his package of triphala in one hand and a package of cigarettes in the other.  He and Dr Vinyak (my host father) go share a smoke after partaking in a 25 minute conversation with me about 'Lehas' and other ayurvedic preparations used to cure disease.  The two sons ( my host brothers, and future owners of the company) sit in the next room napping or checking the internet on their cell phones.  But in the rooms next door and across the small courtyard....
Four simple but charming women sit sorting dried amala fruits from the seed; a man stands stirring a pot of liquid precious metal and beside it, tree resins over blazing flames; a magnificent orange powder is being grounded with a mortar and pestle till perfection; huge vats of liquid herbal fermentations await to be dispatched 8 months from the day they were concocted; and so much more.  The factory is not a factory by any U.S concept of the word.  The grounds may take up the same area as a few tennis courts, the rooms are all very simple with only a few fans and one air-conditioned area.  But the ingredients being used, processes being executed and products being produced are unspeakably complex.

Despite his paradoxical vice of cigarettes, Dr. Vinayak proves to be a highly competent man of Ayurveda, gentle but powerful in his demeanor and more than generous with the time and information he has to share with me.  Indeed, the bulk of my day was spent situated in front of his desk either: partaking in the occasional dialogue about herbs, metals, minerals, etc; being introduced to visiting friends; or absorbing myself in what I believe to be some of the holiest texts this world has to offer- original Ayurvedic medical ingredients and preparation procedures.  Yes, this is what makes my heart sing.

Out of ethical/moral ideals, the factory/pharmacy remains aligned with nearly all traditional preparation methods.  They have added a few simple machines (since the time it was founded by the late Dr. Vinyak) in order to make products more available and affordable to the public.  Dr. Vinayak says he works 'to serve humanity,' that money is secondary.  The Canadian/Indian friend visiting earlier had mentioned that in Kerala you will find more polished and expensive Ayurveda, but here you find a man who works for the people.

I love sitting with the ladies, who partake in their tasks far more socially and enjoyably than do the men (how unusual).  We laugh and try to communicate and do; only the verbal language is different. Amit (the eldest son) tells me that they talk too much and it makes them slow.  I argue that some of the greatest medicine will be produced from this energy.

Wisdom of the Rickshaw Driver

10/5: Delhi

How many people habitually find  themselves wondering if they are either making, have made, ore are going to make the "best" choice about something?  Dwelling in regret if the choice was in the past, swelling with anxiety if it is in the future, or stalled out frozen if in the present? Today I'm finding that- like most things- this tendency is pattern rather than circumstantially driven.  Circumstance seems only to change the appearance of the already existing pattern, in the form of a work assignment, outfit selection, relationship or (currently) peoples' character.
In familiar environments, I pride myself in having what I consider to be good judgement about people.  Now, I find myself seeing a stranger in the eyes of others, a wild foreigness to which I can not readily identify with or relate.  OR, if I alternatively do sense of ease/comfort with an individual, I leave the encounter wondering if I was just being scammed or in some other way manipulated. What to do or think?

Maybe we are not meant to- at one given time- be able to relate to ALL people.  Maybe I must be patient, slowly adjusting to a new way of relating that I am as of yet unaware; and accept my new humble position of, what seems to me, social retardation, with as much grace as possible.

This place really makes me get to the root of what I want and demands me to step up to the task of accomplishing that on a mental and physical level.  After purchasing a plane ticket to where my host family lived due to trains being booked for the next 4 days, then wondering to myself if the trains really were booked, or if my plane ticket was not some kind of a fake, and then crying while explaining this all to my rickshaw driver, he turned to me and said, "Don't cry. Let me see your eyes. Think about what you want. You are going to see your family tonight in Chandigarh and that is what will happen. The past does not matter."

And this I do believe.  I can learn a lesson without dwelling on the past.  What I want will manifest, just the form remains  uncontrollable.  Is this not always the case, where our perception just leads us to believe otherwise? Now in India, I sense no distinction; control simply does not exist.