Wednesday 28 December 2011

Extremes brought to balance


 This past month has placed me in a role of witness, customer and worker within a spiritual/healing supermarket.  Rishikesh, located directly along side India's holiest body of water- the Ganges river- set also among mountains as a gateway to the Himalayas.  It has been a pilgrimage stop for years, due to its position, temples, ashrams and overall positive energy.
Today, it serves the same purpose but with probably 50% more the marketing and outward glamorization of such pursuits then it did 50 or even 25 years ago.  Yet, this development was one of the reasons I was so keen to 'briefly" visit; how has modernization along with increased tourism positively and/or negatively influenced the quality of ancient Indian healing modalities, specifically, Ayurveda?

As usual, I began by getting sick, this time with a high fever.  Hooray! More inspiration and focus for research! After regaining strength enough to move and think clearly, I decided to finally purchase the four-volume ayurvedic texts by the renowned Charaka, both to learn about fever and have on hand for the rest of my life.  Ayurvedic classics extend beyond this man's works, but his contribution was arguably one of the greatest and most influential. The material here is said to have been passed down initially by the Hindu Lord Brahma, down from one divinity to another, and then finally into the hands of human sages. It was finally Charaka who wrote down and published the texts now titled "Charaka Samita." .

From the chapters listed in the table of contexts, these books seem to contain the solutions to every possible human health condition and maintain throughout that at the root level, all sickness is due to an imbalance of the doshas OR to an "evil spirit"- aka organism.  Still, the solutions are rarely ever simple.  To really begin treating fever for instance, one must first diagnose which of about 120 varying types it might be.  And even if correctly diagnosed, to treat exactly according to Charaka would be very complicated it seems for the average Indian man or woman, let alone for individuals in other parts of the world where the majority of prescribed herbal/other concoctions are inaccessible.  Of course, these texts are really only meant to be read/used by individuals in the later part of their Ayurvedic studies, either at the university or with family mentors. So I decided to bring them in to go over with the doctor I'd been spending time observing and conversing with lately.  Dr. Arun Sharma  could clearly connect to a contemporary clientele though much of his training was received under traditional, strict ayurvedic mentorship where no modern diagnostic methods (blood tests, etc) were used. During my stay, he was completely welcoming of presence and generous with his time, sharing my enthusiasm of the subject, making certain I understood what he was explaining all along the way.  

As time passed, I came to perceive the 'supermarket' quality of  the area simply as a commercial demonstration of the wide breadth of India's ancient wisdom.  And ultimately, upon deeper contemplation, it is evident that the nearly all-encompassing intention is but one: to purify the mind and body for the purpose of realizing true harmony in life and subsequently, enlightenment.  One can separate India's classical ayurveda, yoga, meditation, astrology, music, etc. but theories behind and experiences within each have all essentially sprung from and towards a similar paradigm. 

So, while in Rishikesh, I decided to take part in some of the peace-health-frenzy.  I continued to meet with the doctor occasionally, began a daily morning zen meditation, took the occasional yoga class, a couple of classical India violin and and sitar lessons, received and ayurvedic massage and even a quite astonishing vedic astrology reading from a world renowned astrologist who happens to reside in Rishikesh.  The guest house I was staying in even turned into a sort of alternative health clinic; a man from Russia had his weightless exercise harnesses and computer 'bodily-electric-impulse" technology, the older woman from Germany who rents a room on the top floor offered ora/shakra readings, and a long-term guest from France happened to be a reiki master.  And yes, I dabbled in them all!  Simon, who met me in Rishikesh, commented that my apparent butterfly nature of hopping from one wellness flower to the next would  just bring about more confusion.  And the entire time, I agreed completely.  But this was a crucial part of my experiential learning.  To not be told but FEEL, that  no matter the merit behind one philosophy or particular way of being, experiences of peace dependent on others can only be relatively short lived.  As for health, it is a condition inextricably linked to our mind state, whether past or present.

With that awareness, we headed to an open Vipassana course in Rajastan- where excessive external information has little/no room to enter- that would end on Christmas day.  Advice to all for an at once inexpensive and priceless Christmas gift: complete a vipassana course.  They are all over the world, non-sectarian and free to the public.  I can not speak to the details of any experience other than my own, but know from speaking to others after silence broke that similarities occurred throughout. It did not serve as a retreat or escape from reality as so many self-realization sorts of courses do; rather, it provided  the means of feeling and continuing to live in a reality of balance and harmony. 
Is this quality of experience at the root of why so many, like myself, take part in the mad health-rush of Rishikesh? Spend hundreds of dollars at rejuvination spas? Perform endless devotion to this or that god? Is this really why I am here?

~

On the way to South India now to live in an Ayurveda village for some time.  I feel so grateful, like the teachings presented one by one are continuing to present themselves at exactly the time I need them most. Or maybe that's just the way things work around this world. 

Tuesday 15 November 2011

More than just Tea



It must have begun about a month ago- this crazy new zealous I'm experiencing about tea- while meditating, shortly after arriving at my family's house in Panchkula. 'Chai' crosses cast lines, appearing EVERYWHERE, perhaps the single most common item of human consumption besides water.  But where specifically is it coming from (I sometimes wonder if this inquiry rooted in a stubborn environmental ethic will ever cease to haunt/inspire me). My tea enthusism is not entirely new.  I've certainly held a deep appreciation for Camellia sinensis in her various forms and qualities for a number of years.  But perhaps my appreciation for tea has never been so inspired till just recently.  Even my journal cover and pages within are adorned with "Juniper Figlet Blossom's Healing Tea House" logo/art/designs for a future vision. 

Himachel Pradesh is a very minor tea growing region in India, but being there, I managed to find out about a city called Palampur, where a tea cooperative existed and which was only 34km away from the place I'd been living.  After happening upon a friend (the same one I'd met in Armritzar and traveled with to Mcleud Ganj) who was celebrating in part becuse he'd just finished a photo class, was in the process of developing a photobook on chai and was now also wanting to travel to Palampur, I decided the visit must be fated. We left without any specific idea about where exactly we were going or what exactly we were going to do, as usual. I had the name of a sweet looking tea estate I'd glanced at on the net; he had a workable phone; and we shared an equally new and current excitement about tea.

The combination of heat and nausea after the bus ride and a glnce on the way in at the big, impersonal-looking tea cooperative factory we’d heard about led us to the decision of calling the tea estate immediately.  The woman and man on the phone were exceedingly friendly, and our preconceived visit turned into a significantly-reduced price homestay.  So continues the trail of divine and perfect placement... “Darang Tea Estate” was established in the 1840’s, uniquely, by an Indian (rather than the British).  The mother of the current owner (Naveen) was born on the estate and, also uniquely due to her gender, inherited and managed the estate for many years, being her parent’s only child. To see/learn more about this beautiful place go to - http://www.darangteaestate.com/

During the time we were there, I was ablt to complete a short book about tea, Ian took a load of excellent photos and we both spent hours sitting with the Naveen and his wife Neeru talking about life and tea, over many cups of tea, of course.

The flavor is distinct from all of the tea I’ve had in India thus far.  It is black tea, but with a lite color and taste but is not weak. Naveen discussed with us at length about their particular variety of tea compared to others, why it does not require any fertilizer and how to make the perfect cup of tea;  Neeru shared a story about the German Ambassador who once came with his wife for a visit and later ended up ordering 20 kilos.

The estate is relatively small, so all of the tea they grow goes to be processed at the cooperative in Palampur. From there, they and the rest of the world buys it in varying qualities/prices. Of course, they ask about us and I bring up Ayurveda.  They share the now seemingly universal-Indian sentiment that they prefer Ayurveda because_____? It has no side effects!  They also confirm in my mind a perspective I’ve heard from a variety of others- that the reason for the decline of Ayurveda’s presence in India  was due to the Mughal Empire, which became the dominant power in India between the mid-sixteenth and early eighteenth century.  Ayurveda was included in this Muslim Empire’s strong attempt to eliminate anything Hindu.  This also explains why Ayurveda continued to flourish more in the south like in Kerala, as the Mughal’s presence/dominance was never fully realized there as it was in the North.   Neeru said she was happy to witness Ayurveda’s resurgence today.

Here is where it gets interesting.

She continues by saying, “In fact, I believe there is an Ayurvedic center or something close by…AYUR maybe or AYUSH…”
Hearing  this I exclaim, “AYUSH!”  Along with being an acronym that the Indian Government's Ministry of Health uses to refer to 
The Department of Ayurveda, Yoga and Naturopathy, Unani, Siddha and Homoeopathy, AYUSH is a brand of Ayurvedic medicine. This particular brand is special to me not only because it is one of the only brands I’ve seen in India that offers a selection of organic products, but because it is sold by the women in Bellingham I once interned for, and owned by a pair of brother Ayurvedic doctors that work outside of Bellvue!  While still in Bellingham, I had not only gone with my mother to visit their actual office, which was closed that particular day, but had emailed a number of times in hopes of setting up some sort of an arrangement where by I could visit their production facility and/or farms while traveling this year. With no response, I decided to forget about it.  But God did not! Now here with these people, simply because of a whim driven by heart-passion, I am told that the headquarters of this multi-national Ayurvedic company might be located close by in the next village. 

“But I am not sure what it is called” she says.  “I have to go that way tomorrow anyhow, so we can stop by.” The couple also has an organic vegetable garden, orchard and a few cows from which they receive their milk and make cheese, yogurt and butter; so you can imagine our minds and bodies were both duly nourished by this point.

~

Alas, it was AYUSH! And though the larger, posessing more modern facilities than my family’s factory in Patiala, the space is still remarkably small considering their broad clientel.

It goes like this.  There were four brothers. Two became Ayurvedic doctors (one of which married an Ayurvedic doctor), one a Veterinarian and one an engineer.  All were raised by a wonderful mother who was also an exceptional Ayurvedic doctor, but gave up starting an actual practice in order to raise her family. The doctors and the Veterinarian wanted to move to states, so they did.  But they and their father
realized it would be vital for the medicine production part to take place in India in order to substantiate the brothers’ practice in the states (if you havn’t noticed, traditional Ayurvedic medicines aren't too easy to come by in the drug store) so the engineer,  Jilender Sodhi, became the managing director of AYUSH.  He is the one who greets us at the door, turning us over to be hosted by his wife as he is presently needing to attend to some plumbing predicament that had taken place the previous night. I see pictures of Seattle on the wall and internally celebrate the beauty of such a small world.  And it turns out I am not the only one.  The two women,  Neeru and Jilender’s wife Bankaj, are now making connections of how they met each other before and have mutual friends. 

 Neeru says, “all of these years I have been driving by and seeing this place…can you help my 90 year old mother-in-law?...we are your closest neighbors! Anytime you free you must come over for dinner. It give me such a pleasure.” 

Bankaj is also a wonderful lady.  She says she was personally not an Ayurvedist before marrying into the Sodhi family but now is, and not at all by force.  She shares her personal experience using a preparation made with Bosweelia to cure chronic swollen lymph nodes in her neck and also an amazing story about her daughter, whom she’d had from a previous relationship.  Her daughter had been very asthmatic all of her life and had developed an immunity to antibiotics at a very young age.  Her mother-in-law told the girl to drink a tulsi decoction with honey and ginger for 40 days.  Much to Bankaj’s surprise, her daughter was cured!

The facility serves as the center for the ingredient delivery, lab testing, medicine preparation and also offers pancha karma.  Unlike Patiala Pharmacy, which uses a plethora of traditional Ayurvedic recipies that included plant, animal and mineral substances and did NOT have a lab for testing actual medicinal/constituent value, Ayush uses only plant matter and does have a small lab for testing.  To me, the reasoning for for each is clear: Ayush started in 1994, a main focus being to serve an international community where in fact most traditional Ayurvedic formulas would not be permitted to import; Patiala Ayurvedic Pharmacy was founded upon the principles of remaining authentic to traditional formulas and to serve the local Indian population.  

Though Ayush may not be as "grass roots" as Patiala in the sense of its actual medicine-making processes, it is more so in other respects.  Where Patiala uses a middle man, Ayush procures all of their ingredients directly.  "People will stand out on the corner here with plants they've grown or collected in the wild," Bankaj explains noting a woman on the corner holding a bag of walnuts. "We will test the quality in the lab and then (usually) buy whatever we need at the time."
The other systems Ayush has set up to receive the plants/herbs needed to make their medicines tickeled me almost more.  In order to increase the amount of organic, not only on behalf of the medicines but on behalf of the ecology and safety of the environment, as well as to increase individual (specifically women's) financial self-reliance, Ayush will GIVE people in the village the specific organic seeds for the medicinal plants they need. Ayush will then buy the harvest for the same amount as would be paid in the market.  In addition to the profit the farmer makes from the direct sale, they also receive a part of the actual Ayush share.

After a tour around the facility, Jilender, finished sorting out the plumbing issue, invited us all to transition ourselves into the main office to talk. It turns out that Jilinder was the first man to launch an Ayurvedic product in the U.S, back as recently  as 1989.  And it was only after they switched marketing the product under the name "Ayurvedic" to "Traditional Indian" medicine that the business became popular. He now works long, tiresome hours, especially as his family lives on the top floor of the facility, but says he loves and believes in what he does, acknowledging the greater significance it has on benefiting the local and international community.   

Coming from a place of seeking what I want to do during my last year of college and post graduation, I left Ayush feeling a strong conviction (not to say it won't change) about going to Bastyr and doing my clinical internship with the Sodhi brothers. How simple a solution to many of my past conundrums: 1.) How to suit Ayurveda to a Western environment 2.) How to learn about the herbal pharmacopea of a place/climate I actually want to live in while still learning to utilize Ayurvedic theory and principles in practice and 3.) Not have to learn Hindi/Sanskrit fluently in addition to a vastly complex healing system- which would be necessary if I were to attend an Ayurvedic college in India.

I suppose the tea house business will have to come a little later, when I am able to offer more than just tea.

Monday 7 November 2011

Touché, Universe

I asked to go on an adventure, keen to experientially learn about alternative modalities for treating illness;and that is truly what I have received.
Clearly, it has NOT been ten days since last I wrote, but here I am.  The first full day began with extreme sensations of nausea and drowsiness, feelings commonly associated with prolonged meditation, and a slightly uncomfortable itch around my shoulders without any sign of irritation on my skin.  The helper girl (known in the center as a "dhamma worker") said to me smiling, "I think it must be working."  Then the first expressions of red spots appeared and my mind jumped to all sorts of possibilities...bed bugs? scabies??  I've tried to be careful but HAVE slept in a couple of questionable arrangements since leaving my family in Panchkula...maybe I'm allergic to the Ayurvedic formulas I'm taking for girardia?

Though Vipassana is a silent retreat in nearly every sense, one is allowed to speak if need be to the few dhamma workers and with the female 'teacher.' A male and female teacher/master-meditator sit meditating in front of the respective gender groups of meditating students throughout the day.  From the hours of noon and one and after each meditation session, students are given the opportunity to ask questions one-on-one.  Everything must first be approved by teacher before it can be executed.  When I first brought up my itching predicament, she advised me to stop taking the Ayurvedic preparations (which I initially had to ask if I could take) and to ask one of the workers for "prickly ash" (which turned out to  caladryl lotion), so I did.  But the bumps and itching just became worse.  My only solace was that the quality of their appearance as they evolved and increase/decrease in severity associated with temperature signified that it was at least not scabies or bed bugs. 

When I finally showed the dhamma worker helping me a section of the bumps on my skin, she started getting more concerned and actually called teacher to my room to have a look.  Teacher, with deep concentration but calm said, "ah, we call this 'pit' [an ayurvedic term, 'pitta']. It is when to much heat and cold conflict in the body.  She must take in cool foods. Oranges. Amla." She also told the dhamma worker it would be good if a Tibetan doctor could come up.  When I explained what an anti-histamine was, she thought this would be a positive thing too. 

But just because one of the teachers approves something doesn't necessarily mean it will happen.  The manager of the center reported to me via the dhamma worker that a doctor would not be allowed in the vicinity and they could not provide me with the anti-histimine because they were not doctors.  Amla was not on sight and oranges had only been offered with one meal. My only choice was to stay or leave by the time I'd spent 4 nights because at noon on that day, the actual Vipassana initiation would take place.

Even without having taken part in a Vipassana meditation retreat, it is not difficult to recognize the ridiculousness of the situation: waking at 4am after minimal sleep from constant itching with no relief; sitting approximately 9 hours a day, itching; remembering that a parasite called girardia is currently inhabiting my large intestine, happy as can be, no longer being eradicated with an external substance.
Who knows...
Was it an extreme psychosomatic reaction to the meditation? My body on a physical level ridding its self of deeply-rooted poisons of the mind?
Was it my body-intelligence screaming to me, "get the hell out of here you crazy fool! What do you think you are doing, following so strictly the code-of-discipline of someone else? I rebel!"
Or was it that egg  or peanut I ate the day before coming? Or the Ayurvedic medicine, which everyone says has no side effects?

Regardless, after much internal deliberation and another night of near sleeplessness, the bumps only increasing in severity, I knew I must leave. Teacher was encouraging of this choice, just telling me to "go and get well", thanking me for coming. 

As I walked down the mountain into town to the doctor, there was no question that a mutation of mind state had occurred, even in only four days.  Sometimes it takes being placed against a familiar pattern to detect your alteration in shade, so to speak. Although fairly blissful, it is a curious experience as the ultimate truth that Vipassana and Buddhism in general teaches is the core sameness of it all, the lack of distinction and equality of all things.  I suppose this sentiment came a bit later, once the initial and drastic change in environment began wearing off.

I first went to the near-by Tibetan doctor where  I was directed into a room with a woman who was speaking Tibetan  almost angrily into the phone.  This continued for the next ten-minutes or so (though I decided it was more forceful than actually angry) until she finally put down the phone, looking up and smiling at me. "Yes, what do you want?" I showed her patches of my body while going over my experience thus far with the meditation, ayurvedic medicine, etc. In very broken English she said "ohh yeesss, bad itch itch" making pained expressions on her face and scratching motions on her body to show me she knew what I was going through.  "You get medicine. Go to chemist. Feel better. This itch, itch...no good." She negated my idea of taking Tibetan medicines, saying they take a long time.  She opened up a big book of clients in front of me, gesturing towards the ones who also had allergies like this, some often and some irregular like mine.  It seemed from our communication that those with chronic allergies take the Tibetan medication and those with severe outbreaks like mine she refers to the chemist [basic small pharmacies that abound in India, including mostly allopathic and some 'conventional natural' products].

So I walk to the counter and do exactly what I spoke against in my last entry; I buy myself a nice little package of white tablets. Thank you Montelukast and Levocetirizine!

I later made my way to the same Ayurvedic doctors' office, this time meeting with a woman whom I much preferred.  She assured me that there was absolutely no way it was the Ayurvedic medicines  that caused my reaction and told me it was a good thing I left because I needed to continue with the parasite formula. She guessed my reaction was stimulated by an egg. People who don't typically have sensitivities to eggs, for instance, can have allergic reactions  upon consuming eggs here. She advised me to take the anti-histimine and drink plenty of fluids.  When I informed her I was actually here to explore Ayurvedic medicine, she said that she would be happy to talk with me more at length if I returned in a couple of days.

~

What was it? Taking a theoretical Ayurvedic perspective, it was each and every possibility listed previously.  It was a disturbance of my 'doshic balance,' which includes mind, body and spirit.  So currently, I am tending to each of these with patient sensitivity.

for those others with hives...

Ayurvedic/Alyson's Topical and Internal Alleviates for Hives
ghee mixed with black pepper
baking soda with water
cold water 
eating cilantro, oranges (all fruits), oats
calendula and anti-septic herbal oil
not too spicy foods

Monday 31 October 2011

Experiential Learning



I have left my routine, traditional lifestyle with the Vinayaks; taken the pilgrimage to the Golden Temple for a beloved friend in Bellingham; and for the past few days have made a new sort-of home in the beautiful mountains of tourist-filled Mcloud Gang/Dharamsala.

I finally admitted to myself that something was/is seriously wrong with my digestion.  It is not possible that nearly every food item wreaks havoc on my intestines (or that my body's receptivity to different foods is steadily decreasing).  Before arriving here, I had contacted a group called "The Ayurveda House" to see if there was any possibility of my meeting with the doctors on staff or volunteering around the place.  As the response was positive, I felt good about seeking it out, but now for my OWN treatment.

A kind Indian photographer fellow from Delhi accompanied me on my treck across the short mountain pass, sharing with me first that my pronunciation of Ayurveda was incorrect (and really, it is AyurveD in Hindi anyway...) and a success story of his brother's using Ayurvedic and Homeopathic medicine when allopathy was not able to help.  He also read my palm, telling me, among other things, that I had a very strong study and wealth line and would most likely get married at the age of 24.

Both of my meetings with the doctor were short and simple.  He took my pulse, examined my tongue, checked my blood pressure with a manual but modern machine, asked me to report my symptoms and sent me down to the lab in Dharamsala to take a stool test.  Which, fittingly, came back positive for girardia.

Back the next day with the doctor, he asked me if I wanted Ayurvedic or Allopathic medicines.  The allopathic would take an estimated 5-8 days while the Ayurvedic Herbal would take an estimated 13-15.  As anyone who has suffered extreme/chronic pain or discomfort knows, the tempting nature of such an offer is intense. "Oh, ok. THIS time I'll take what I KNOW is going to work, and will work FAST.  I just can't take it anymore...in the future I'll be more careful...I'll try something natural NEXT time."  I'm not about to state that this mind-talk never warrants any merrit because it does; but in more instances, it does not.  So, I struggled for a few moments with my own mind-talk, ultimately deciding that taking the Ayurvedic medicine was a vital part of my experiential learning process (in addition to the countless other reasons to select natural over allopathic medicine). 

I received two fairly big bottle of a liquid formula (a decoction that more than likely sat in one of those large vats for months like the ones I saw at my Indian family's factory) and a package of brown pills.  In addition, the doctor gave me a brief explanation about how the parasite was effecting my 'pitta' (digestive fire) and that in order to support its elimination, increasing my body's capacity to have superior digestion by not eating the wrong foods was crucial to the process. Also, that because this parasite is effecting the quality of my digestion, 'ama' (toxins) were subsequently building up in my tissues which will increase risk of disease later on.  Therefore, propper rejuvination treatment will be crucI am to report back when my medicine is complete to receive one more bottle.
This visit was not particularly impressive. Not that I'm any kind of expert, but most of what he told me (besides what actual medicine I should take) I already intuited/knew. Unlike the other doctors I have spoken with so far, this man truly represented the 'modern' Ayurvedic physician: one who is thoroughly trained in the medical sciences of allopathy and ayurved, but seems to lack the heart or intuitive instinct an ayurvedic healer.  The dietary advice he offered me was good, but hardly thorough in my opinion.  I was able to find out more through my own food trial and error experiements and from the advice that a woman/friend of mine offered who had experienced the same problem.
 
So for everyone's edification, in case you happen to acquire girardia in india...
 
1.) Girardia is a single-celled parasite that infects the small intestine.  It can live inactively as a 'cyst.'  Because of this, the infection can exist for years in the body without even being noticed (grapefruit seed extract is one of the only items known to kill not the parasite, but the lingering CYSTS)
 
2.) Ayurvedic medication DOES work; I have been on mine now for only two days and already feel totally different, in a good way
 
3.) Drink lots of water, with lemmon and salt is even better
 
4.) Do NOT eat/drink: Milk, nuts, meat, cafinated beverage, eggs, junk/fried/heavy foods.
 
5.) Especially GOOD to eat: Fresh garlic, ginger (all sorts of spices, but not items that are too 'spicy'), papaya (all fruit), carrots (all vegetables) butter, y llow and red dal, rice, herbal teas.
 
honey and chipati are fine.
 
~
 
Such an abundance of stimulating curiosities in this place.  Besides the other Ayurvedic doctors I want to seek out, Tibetan medicine is perhaps even more prevalent.  When I innitiallly went to the near by tibetan clinic and breifly reported my symptoms, they told me to go to the Ayurvedic doctor.  What a concept! For different healing modalities to understand their strengths, but to also recfognize where another modality might have better treatment measures in place.  I feel ridiculously exited to witness such a frame of mind, most likely because  of the void of such thinking in  the majority of allopathy.
 
But all of this exploration will have to wait, for 10 days at least.  I will be starting a 10-day vipassana (silent meditation retreat) in a few hours.   From the interactions I have had thus far with Ayurvedic healers who's very presence has moved me, I've taken from them how vital the elemet of spiritual practice/meditation is not only in one's capacity to be healed, but to indeed perform the healing. 
Both are aspects beneficial for all people to nourish within themselves throughout this life. In the spirit of my adventure's search to become closer to the hearler, and in my current state as the healee, this seems like a very appropriate time for me to begin such an undertaking as prolonged meditation.
  

Thursday 27 October 2011

some days with some doctors, and then some...

10/25

I was first dropped at Ayurvedic Doctor Gupta's office last week, on the recommendation made by the doctor I am currently living with.  As I walked in, the doctor was sitting with his eyes closed, attentively tuned in with the pulse of a woman-patient in front of his desk.  Taking a few moments to observe my surroundings, I happily scanned the shelves behind the counter lined with an array of medicines from my family's herbal production facility, you know, that sort of 'farm-to-table' feeling. But the most prominent feature in the small room is a board with a list titled "Important Points for a Patient," created by Dr. Gupta:

IMPORTANT POINTS FOR A PATIENT

1.) Even if you are sick and become a patient, you must never lose patience
2.) The greatest healers are GOD and TIME
3.) Keep patience and live peacefully
4.) Don't be angry and aggressive
5.) Be happy and don't be tense
6.) In all respects, keep giving respect
7.) Have faith in GOD and Doctor
8.) Prevention is better than cure
9.) Faith in God means no fear
10.) Doctor treats, God cures
11.) Early to bed early to rise, makes a an healthy, wealthy and wise



The duration of the consultation is a far more communal than private affair.  Soon after taking his patient's pules the doctor motioned for me to seat myself on the chair directly right of the patient's, her middle-aged daughter occupying the seat to her left.  I can't understand what they are saying to each other but it seems to relate to inflammation/bloating of some sort (?) by the gestures and expressions I perceive.  By this point, the patient appears to have taken a liking to me, as I have to her.  I offer whatever consolation I can through my expressions/intermittent verbal communication attempts and soon, she offers her arm to me and I'm the one feeling her place of discomfort!  She expresses her feelings of distress.  I just sit, nod, occasionally letting out a sound I hope resembles empathy, and send as much healing energy into that arm and body as I can muster.

As her daughter takes the notes and medicines from the doctor, the mother and I embrace one another before she leave as though we've been life-long companions on the way to separation.

The day continues, full of patients and no time for me to ask the doctor the page of questions I'd written prior to arriving.  But the experience proves equally as informative as if I had had time to ask.  Another patient, this time a man who spoke English, shared with me his condition and why he has chosen Ayurvedic of Allopathic medicine for the past 15 years.  He had started taking perscrption medicine for chronic pain he was feeling in his joints but soon after developed serious deterioration of his small intestine due to the nature of the medication.  With Ayurvedic medicines, however, he had repaired the damage of his small intestine and no longer experiences joint pain.

The reasoning I hear over and over again about why Ayurveda is preferred over allopathic is because 'It WORKS and there are NO SIDE EFFECTS."

Though traditional Ayurvedic medicines contain all sorts of ingredients that would seem unfathomable to the Western paradigm- metals, stones, and cow urine, for example, are all fairly common ingredients- the results are consistently positive.  When using allopathic drugs, additional negative effects are practically inherent. 

The working day ends before I've really had much of a chance to talk with the doctor, so he kindly invites me to return the following day.
But the following day, instead of continuing with the question-answering process himself, he leads me outside, down a pathway and upstairs to a slightly more extensive clinical center.  Past the main entrance and into a side room, he introduces me to two individuals. "Masters" he says, "My teachers; much smarter than me." This is hard for me to imagine, as this particular doctor looked no younger than 75. I try to explain to them what I am doing (I suppose it is a little bit confusing...'no, I don't have any real history with Ayurveda...no, I'm not certain I want to be a doctor..but yes, I have traveled across the world to learn what you have to share, even though neither of us knew of the other's existence until moments ago').  Still, they accept my proposal, telling me to return the next day.


So there I sit, with these 60 year-veteran Ayurvedic doctors (who I later learn to be a married couple) ecstatic to have all of my well thought out questions about health and disease answered by their master-minds.
I should have remembered my earlier advice to self: in India, control simply does not exist.


I don't think one of my planned questions was answered, except an incredibly trivial inquiry about sweet milk tea- drinking small amount before breakfast is quite alright. Instead, my fate was a sort-of lecture revolving around GOD. 
"All mighty has given this wold..only meant for our benefit of medicine.  God gives us a plant with many things: 5 for purpose, 5 to prevent side effects [exact numbers were irrelevant to to the point]. Ayurveda does not question God's wisdom."
 He says it is Allopathy's questioning of this wisdom (taking the '5' for purpose and leaving the '5' for side effects) that lead to so many behavioral/physical problems, jealousy, suicide, etc.  The male doctor does most of the talking but his wife, quite strictly, keeps his English and subject content in check. He continues to say very matter-of-factually that there will come a time when the tradition will be lost. That scripturally and experientially speaking, once something rises too high it must collapse; humanity is now on top, so it along with its traditions, must fall. I point out that such statements could easily be taken by some as slightly depressing, even making one question the point of life.
 He throws up his hands, "Why? We are here to learn! To gather information! That is why we are taking births, to choose between performing good and bad works."  


They motion up to a picture on the wall of a young man.  It is their son, who is now deceased.  They are doing their work for him. It is purely charity work.  Although the man was once the principle of the Punjab Ayurvedic College, neither of them charge their patients at this point.  Only if the patient must go next door for some treatment by other doctors on staff, then the charge is 70 rupees- less than $2.

Although the conversation was largely historical, philosophical/spiritual in content, I was grateful to also receive some insight into tangible ways of Ayurvedically living life and treating dis-ease. For now, I will just share a single point they both conveyed with equal severity of importance: the body's absolute need for proper digestion, which includes taking meals at VERY consistent time intervals- with consciousness and a clean emotional state- as being one of the largest ways to prevent the immersion of virtually every dis-ease.

Their routine is, for example:
*wake up early. Eat spoonfull of chawanprash and drink small tea
*45 minute walk
*9:00 breakfast
*2:00 lunch
*4:00 tea
*8:30 dinner
Only liquids/fresh juice in between meals!


Out of the three hours we spent together, I think it is very telling of Ayurveda that these two incredibly clinically-experienced doctors felt it in my best interest to relay with me the spirit behind Ayurveda above all other things.  But it really is not even a perspective exclusive to Ayurvedic/Hindu tradition either; all religions/spiritualities I am aware of opine that the earth is part of "God's" creation also.  Ayurveda is simply an entire medical system that takes such beliefs to heart, practicing and tangibly developing what so many scriptures and people around the world preach.   
 


~on a side note, some strangely unknown, powerful and wonderful energy possessed me two days ago, and my head is now shaved.  With my hair, it seems as though many lingering feelings of trepidation were simultaneously trimmed.  Thank you, God?

ok, that's all for now.
love : )

Family and TRADITION

10/16

To explain the intricate webbings of my host family's relatives, and how some of them are actually partially responsible for my coming to be with this family in the first place, would be far too complex.  Though I do see this complexity as being significant; the fact that these intricate webbings not only exist, but are entirely revered and nurtured is definitional for Indian/Hindu culture.

Four days ago was the first act of a very special occasion. "Karva Chauth"- derived from a very old myth- is a day Hindu women take to fast for the good health and longevity of their spouse.  Men occasionally take part (which really makes the most sense to me)  but such participation is rare.  Around the time of this day, it is customary women to cover their hands in henna, paint nails, wear bangles and for the daughter-in-law's family to visit and bring gifts to the family of the the daughter's husband. 

The 3.5hr journey to visit the in-laws was hot and the traffic virtually endless, varying only in the extent of its craziness/confusion.  What I've seen of the Punjabi and Haryana regions has not been particularly aesthetic; what has been a beautiful sight though, is not ONE individual that comes even somewhat close to resembling me!

We are met with the utmost graciousness.  I am beginning to detect a pattern....
It is interesting to observe everyone's 'roles' as they vary from setting to setting.  If only a single scene in the day was observed, for instance, it might appear that only the helping hand does any work; or the daughter in law; or the mother.  But as the day goes on and one task flows into the next, so does the individual that is performing a particular task.  This may also happen in the West, but what is definitely different is the rigid distinction between roles and how they are impeccably understood by all. 
Part of me appreciates this way of living without there being so much question or passive aggression/confusion about about what one person should be doing, when, or why.  "It is what it is, we are all supporting each other, and that is that!" 


This leads into the subject of marriage.  The man we visited (whose son married the daughter of my family; the couple now lives in my home-town of Colville) told me that it was one of the wonderful things about Indian culture. "It is not only a marriage of two people, but two families." His father of 98 recently died, but lived in the same house as his son, daughter-in-law, and grandchildren till that day.  Sanvi, the two-year-old I live with is receiving love and affection from all angles, be it from her parents, grandparents, or uncle.  Each generational perspective offers wisdom to the other.  The only requirement is that the daughter must be the one to leave her birth family to join that of her husband- so good luck girls! But because the two families are 'joined' visits/calls/tokens of appreciation etc. are made a priority, even if it does require long and uncomfortable traveling experiences.

My host sister assures me that the situation is not idyllic.  "Have you met your boyfriend's parents?? Imagine living with them!" She says that modern thoughts of independence and nuclear families have certainly entered Indian awareness, leading to a 'breaking up' of the family. 
Also, that people sacrifice and hold a great deal in their hearts to make it work.  Still, she and what currently seems to be the bulk of India sees this as being the best choice.


So yesterday was Karva Chauth and like a good host-daughter and active anthropological participant, I fasted for the good health of my "husband." It actually was an entirely satisfying experience.  The day was filled with reading, going to the temple, attending a 'kitty-party' (a women's group where we played a game something like bingo) and going over the story of Karva Chauth/partaking in puja with my host mother and sister.  The tradition is to take simple chipati and water at 4:00am, drink one glass of water and tea at 3:00, and then break the fast when the moon becomes visible.

This culture is incredibly rich with its seemingly endless ancient traditions/customs. But being here is bringing to light that (to me) it is not simply the ancientness or particular origin that makes a tradition special or not; it is the individual's and group's love-consciousness with which they are (or are not)  enacted.

Domestic Life with the Vinayaks

10/11: Panchkula, Haryana

Now at home; it is 9:16pm and dinner is almost ready.  The wife of the eldest brother has just told me that when I am finished, I must come teach her to bake. Cookies I think. She doesn't seem to understand why a  microwave 'oven' would not work to do the job  like any other oven.  I guess there is a first try for everything!
She speaks English well, met her husband while receiving her masters degree.  I am so incredibly grateful for her presence and friendship while I am here.  She tells me that India is a transition country- split between traditional and modern ways- and that that is the most difficult place to be. She personally experiences the challenges on the household level as a wife (submissive/independent; food; family/career; etc) but ultimately remains entirely committed to her role in the family as mother and helping hand to her mother-in-law. The general belief is that Western ways of "freedom" are actually just selfish.  "Aren't your parents lonely? Why don't you live with them?"
~
The family as a whole seems to fit perfectly into the definition of 'split,' as it refers to their modern and traditional quality.  The television or computer are almost always on, the microwave is used occasionally, western-styled clothes are worn by the younger generation and white 'wonder' bread and some other very American-styled products are consumed now and then.  Still, the majority is quite traditional.  We  partake in 'puja' (a prayer/mantra, frequently chanted to a particular deity over a shrine) and I'll regularly hear my host mother do the  same over food she prepares or while doing laundry; food is nearly always made from scratch, the produce coming from vendors around the house and milk from their family's cow; the baby's milk is heated with a few herbs to aid in digestion; and most significantly in my mind, the entire family lives shares the same house, and can not imagine it being any other way.


It is fascinating to frequently witness behaviors that I would deem so uncharacteristic of one another being executed in one person. Maybe it is not so much the contradiction, but the unconsciousness with which traditional and modern behaviors merge. Eating a wonder bread/fake cheese sandwich...but always finishing with black salt (a useful aid in digestion). Or spending the afternoon watching television.....but never forgetting to take some moments to offer a prayer to the shrine before leaving for work.

I guess contradictions of people exist everywhere in the world- India or even an Ayurvedic family is no different.  But my host sister is saddened by the modernization of India, reminiscing of the traditional ways of her own mother and grandmother. Modernization is rampant on a large scale- especially it seems if you wish to be distinguished as a well-to-do person or family.  So many fearful thoughts are coming up for me about the sustainability of Indian plants/animals/resources if the reverence for traditional foods and ways are lost in the excited flurry to modernize; this topic could easily pull me into research in-and-of its self.

Patiala Ayurvedic Herbal Factory

10/7: Patiala, Punjab

The Indian-man-friend visiting from Canada takes his package of triphala in one hand and a package of cigarettes in the other.  He and Dr Vinyak (my host father) go share a smoke after partaking in a 25 minute conversation with me about 'Lehas' and other ayurvedic preparations used to cure disease.  The two sons ( my host brothers, and future owners of the company) sit in the next room napping or checking the internet on their cell phones.  But in the rooms next door and across the small courtyard....
Four simple but charming women sit sorting dried amala fruits from the seed; a man stands stirring a pot of liquid precious metal and beside it, tree resins over blazing flames; a magnificent orange powder is being grounded with a mortar and pestle till perfection; huge vats of liquid herbal fermentations await to be dispatched 8 months from the day they were concocted; and so much more.  The factory is not a factory by any U.S concept of the word.  The grounds may take up the same area as a few tennis courts, the rooms are all very simple with only a few fans and one air-conditioned area.  But the ingredients being used, processes being executed and products being produced are unspeakably complex.


Despite his paradoxical vice of cigarettes, Dr. Vinayak proves to be a highly competent man of Ayurveda, gentle but powerful in his demeanor and more than generous with the time and information he has to share with me.  Indeed, the bulk of my day was spent situated in front of his desk either: partaking in the occasional dialogue about herbs, metals, minerals, etc; being introduced to visiting friends; or absorbing myself in what I believe to be some of the holiest texts this world has to offer- original Ayurvedic medical ingredients and preparation procedures.  Yes, this is what makes my heart sing.

Out of ethical/moral ideals, the factory/pharmacy remains aligned with nearly all traditional preparation methods.  They have added a few simple machines (since the time it was founded by the late Dr. Vinyak) in order to make products more available and affordable to the public.  Dr. Vinayak says he works 'to serve humanity,' that money is secondary.  The Canadian/Indian friend visiting earlier had mentioned that in Kerala you will find more polished and expensive Ayurveda, but here you find a man who works for the people.

I love sitting with the ladies, who partake in their tasks far more socially and enjoyably than do the men (how unusual).  We laugh and try to communicate and do; only the verbal language is different. Amit (the eldest son) tells me that they talk too much and it makes them slow.  I argue that some of the greatest medicine will be produced from this energy.

Wisdom of the Rickshaw Driver

10/5: Delhi

How many people habitually find  themselves wondering if they are either making, have made, ore are going to make the "best" choice about something?  Dwelling in regret if the choice was in the past, swelling with anxiety if it is in the future, or stalled out frozen if in the present? Today I'm finding that- like most things- this tendency is pattern rather than circumstantially driven.  Circumstance seems only to change the appearance of the already existing pattern, in the form of a work assignment, outfit selection, relationship or (currently) peoples' character.
In familiar environments, I pride myself in having what I consider to be good judgement about people.  Now, I find myself seeing a stranger in the eyes of others, a wild foreigness to which I can not readily identify with or relate.  OR, if I alternatively do sense of ease/comfort with an individual, I leave the encounter wondering if I was just being scammed or in some other way manipulated. What to do or think?


Maybe we are not meant to- at one given time- be able to relate to ALL people.  Maybe I must be patient, slowly adjusting to a new way of relating that I am as of yet unaware; and accept my new humble position of, what seems to me, social retardation, with as much grace as possible.

This place really makes me get to the root of what I want and demands me to step up to the task of accomplishing that on a mental and physical level.  After purchasing a plane ticket to where my host family lived due to trains being booked for the next 4 days, then wondering to myself if the trains really were booked, or if my plane ticket was not some kind of a fake, and then crying while explaining this all to my rickshaw driver, he turned to me and said, "Don't cry. Let me see your eyes. Think about what you want. You are going to see your family tonight in Chandigarh and that is what will happen. The past does not matter."

And this I do believe.  I can learn a lesson without dwelling on the past.  What I want will manifest, just the form remains  uncontrollable.  Is this not always the case, where our perception just leads us to believe otherwise? Now in India, I sense no distinction; control simply does not exist.